Hotels in Kai Bae and the south of Koh Chang

Koh Chang Cliff Beach ($$ - $$$$)

An upscale, secluded resort at the very northern end of Kai Bae beach.  The location ensures that the beach is as private as you're likely to find.  Also, top marks to them for having a gaily painted, stretched electric golf cart to ferry guests around in.

Some of spacious rooms are built onto the hillside overlooking the beach with a large beachfront restaurant providing a nice place for a sunset beer or two and a good place for  quiet dinner.  The remainder of the rooms are clustered along the banks of a small artificial lake which stretches from the children's pool area near the beach back to the reception near the car park.  And it is very pleasant with shade provided by mature trees and wooden walkways across the lake. In room decor is basically a few of the standard Thai touches you see in all decent hotels.  Hanging silk, stone carvings, a wardrobe with a curved, Thai roof-like top and so on.  In 2006 a new cliff top pool was constructed which provides great views and an escape from families with kids who will usually keep to the beach and pool near the restaurant

Now that the built up roadside portion of Kai Bae has grown, it means that a five minute walk from the main entrance will take you to a few small restaurants, bars , pharmacy, 7-11 etc.  Plenty of options if you want to leave your semi-luxurious enclave. 

No major downsides, other than I know some guests have said that the resort could do with some renovation/modernisation as it's starting to show it's age, but you should note that if climbing up and down steps or inclines is something your doctor advised you to steer clear of, then bear this in mind if you plan on staying in a cliffside room.  With a bit of effort on behalf of the management and staff this could be a really nice resort, but as it is there's room for improvement, but it's a better than average place to stay.

Guest Reviews:

"The room was pretty good, just five steps to outside jacuzzi and swimming pool. I booked this hotel because its home page stated access to Wi-Fi Internet."

"We were very happy with our stay in the Garden view suite. The cliff rooms were too high up and inconvenient for old people like us though. The staff were good and friendly and and it was a very quite and beautiful place. Nice rooms. The breakfasts were ok but could be improved."

"Nice location and very nice views. Rooms just ok. Service friendly but just ok. Very nice new pool and some new rooms, long walk though. A bit unprofessional overall and too basic for the price you pay."

"We went expecting luxury.  Perhaps when the resort opened it was luxurious but it is now in need of a touch of paint and some refurbishment. A couple of staff members spoke very good English and were very efficient - a credit to the hotel."

Prices through Evolution Tour for 2007-08

Room	Low season 01/06-30/09	High season  01/10-31/05	Low season 01/06-30/09
Hotel Seaview "Pool side"	2.800	3.650	2.850
Cliff View	2.800	3.650	2.850
Cliff View Superior	3.300	4.350	3.500
Garden View	3.300	4.350	3.500
Thai House	5.200	6.400	5.200

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Chang Park Resort ($ - $$$$$)

Owned by Centrepoint Ferry company so if you're driving to Koh Chang you can get a free ferry crossing.  They have bungalows, hotel rooms and a handful of really nice teak wood, poolside Thai style villas which if you have the cash to splash would make a great honeymoon hangout if they weren't clustered so close to one another.  The resort doesn't ooze romantic vibes, so if you're in search of a romantic getaway then there are better options. 

The resort is next door to Cliff Beach and as such is pretty secluded and quiet and the beachfront in this area will be devoid of hippies and backpacking types making it a good choice for families who want a quiet stretch of beach for the kids to play on, a pool plus a few bars / restaurants nearby where the grown ups can get wrecked safe in the knowledge that a member of the hotel staff is spoiling their kids rotten back at the resort.  At low tide it's clear that the seabed is a mix of stones and sand here, so care has to be taken when walking into the sea to swim.

It's  also a good choice for groups who want to stay together as Chang Park has three large houses for rent which can easily accommodate 8 or more adults.  So, if you want to stay with your extended family or friends in comfort then renting the American, British or French houses works out far cheaper than 3 or 4 rooms or bungalows at a good resort.  A 7-11 minimart, two ATMs, various tour agencies and a new shopping plaza - are all less than 5 minutes walk from the resort.

Once you're past the life size elephant statues and inside the resort it's pretty spacious, with a large lawn area near the beach and freeform pool.  Hotel rooms are in the 2 year old main building - some with sea views, some without. But the cheaper garden bungalows located near the entrance have the appearance of a British holiday camp about 20 years ago    Chang Park guests who've stayed in the cheap bungalows don't appear to be very impressed and the agreed opinion is that they need demolition rather than simple renovation.

The spacious lawn is nice and from it you get  nice sea views to the front and, the rear of backpacker huts to the left. Having peacocks wandering freely is also an original touch but if you thought a cockerel's early morning crowing was annoying, you've never heard a horny peacock at 5 am.

Guest Reviews:

"Beautiful garden, poolside and beach. Good service and nice staff. The room was clean and I could see very nice sunset every evening from the balcony. I tried oil massage which was found fair. In all, Chang Park Resort was fair."

"Something is very wrong with this hotel. Where shall I begin: my son and I got green hair (we have blond hair) from the swimming pool. There are 2 types of standard bungalows; old and newer ones. It is a shame that they dare to rent the old bungalows. They are expensive for what they are, dirty, dangerous electricity and a lot of things are broken and holes in the door. Towels dirty and with holes in them. And then the bed smells like forgotten wet laundry."

"We stayed here 11 days in a family-suite at the hotel. From what we heard from around the pool area, the hotel building is absolutely the best choice as many guests were not happy with their bungalows."

Prices through Evolution Tour for 2007-08

Room	Low season 16/5-30/9	High season  1/10-15/5	Peak season 25/12-5/1	Extra bed
Bungalow	1.550	1.800	2.100	600
Hotel Superior	2.000	2.300	2.600	600
Family Suite	4.000	4.100	4.400	600
Deluxe Suite	4.600	4.700	5.000	600
Thai Honeymoon Suite	5.600	5.700	6.000	600
American Suite	9.900	9.900	10.200	600

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Sea View Resort & Spa ($ - $$$$$)

Another secluded resort, accessibly only by a 300 metre long private road leading off the main road at the southern tip of Kai Bae beach.  One of the best located hotels on the island and at low tide it's possible to walk out to an island just off shore, but be careful of currents between the beach and the island as there have been drownings in high season in the past.  Now managed by a woman who's been working there since the resort first opened and is well worth having a chat with if you want to know how the island has changed over the past 15 years.  

The seclusion obviously has it's pros and cons.  Good for privacy, bad if you fancy a bite to eat at a restaurant outside your hotel.  However, transport into Kai Bae is provided by the resort - but you have to pay for it.  However, it is possible to walk along the beach in the evening to reach bungalow resorts which all have excellent beachfront restaurants - try KB Resort & Kai Bae Beach Bungalows.  For late night beers you need look no further then Porn Bungalows, next door to Sea View, - a longstanding backpacker hangout with friendly beach bar. ('Porn' in Thai language has a very different meaning than it does in English you'll be pleased, or maybe disappointed, to know.)

For anyone who loves cold yoghurt, warm oil and various other fluids being rubbed over their body, one of the island's best spas, PNN Spa, is located within the grounds of the resort.  The resort features some nice architecture, bordering on traditional Thai, in the spa area and the most luxurious rooms.  As indicated by the price guide, Sea View attempts to cater to everyone from families in need of a cheap AC bungalow to honeymooning couples in search of luxury.  Best choice as far as rooms go are the new Deluxe hotel rooms which all feature floor to ceiling windows, balconies with a great sunset sea view.  They are bright, spacious, well designed & decorated and have two bathrooms - one with a shower & toilet, the other with a bath.  These are glass walled so you can choose to shower and watch the sunset or pull the blinds down for some privacy.  As far as value for money goes these rooms beat the likes of the Amari & Aiyapura easily. 

A good choice if you're looking for a quiet, mid-price family friendly hotel but if it's top-end luxury by the beach that you want then Amari,  Panviman or Tropicana are probably better choices than going for Sea View's most expensive rooms. (But worth noting I've had a few emails form guests who've mentioned they received very good service at Sea View.)

Guest Reviews:

"Chose least expensive rooms, the bathrooms especially need updating, but can t beat the view. Treated courteously and promptly by staff. End of busy season, not many people at hotel. Had the beautiful pool to ourselves. Restaurant food fair, breakfast simple but good."

"This is a very nice resort, situated on a beautiful beach. We stayed in a deluxe room in the new building which was an excellent room, decorated tastefully and very spacious. Bottom line - this resort is ideal for couples on a romantic vacation. Going there with small children can be a little problematic due to lack of activities."

"Its great hotel, clean, tidy, friendly, beautiful beach and surroundings. Great spa and massage facilities. Only negative thing I can think of is the service at the restaurant."

"Lovely location and well designed for rest and relaxation. Staff at hotel could use some improvement in customer service but the staff at the spa was terrific. This was good value for the money and the rooms were comfortable and always clean. The strange thing about the staff was that when you asked them to help or requested something they would hop to it; but they did not seem capable of anticipating your needs. all in all we would return; the physical location is to die for."

"Staff tried very hard and were very friendly which is the norm in Thailand. The food was excellent though. Difficult to get out of the hotel, until, that is, we found an alternative route via the beach. You need a torch. The hotel was not very helpful if you wanted to go out, you had to pay 100 baht to get to the nearest village if you used their shuttle bus. They could offer that for free because the hotel is isolated."

Lonely Beach

Bhumiyama Beach Resort ($$ - $$$)

The first, and currently, only up-market resort to open on Lonely Beach which for years was the backpackers favourite vacation spot on Koh Chang . . . and still is.  Lonely Beach is a 400 metre long curve of powdery white sand, and probably the best of the west coast beaches if sunbathing is your thing.  There  an be some noise from the neighbouring beach bar - Nature Rocks - if you happen to stay on a Full moon night in high season, but usually the area around the hotel is pretty quiet late at night.  A short walk down the beach will bring you to plenty of good value backpacker bars and restaurants.

This resort looks nicer than it actually is.  It's all a bit reminiscent of Thai temples which, in the main, have beautiful exteriors but are either totally empty or rather bland inside.  Here the rooms have whitewashed walls, a few of the obligatory Thai touches - the cellophane wrapped fruit bowl, orchid flower on the pillow, mock antique make-up table & mirror set and are therefore, perfectly adequate 3-star but not 4-star.  However, the outdoor bathrooms in some rooms are a good feature and one that more resorts should have - but they're best enjoyed outside the rainy season.

The reception area is odd in that it's rarely manned, you usually have to summon staff by ringing a bell and they appear from a door behind the counter made from driftwood & glass.  What they're doing around the back that they couldn't be doing at  a computer at the front desk isn't known.

The garden/pool area is chained off from the beach to deter the unwashed masses from taking free showers or a cooling fresh water dip.  From the pool area the views are great, lovely beach, sunset views and a couple of small islands nearby which are within easy reach by sea canoe.  Not as many conveniences as you'd find on White Sand Beach, the north end of Klong Prao or Kai Bae (the main one being no ATM for bank branch in the area)  but if you're adventurous enough to have made it to Koh Chang and then booked a hotel this far down the west coast, that shouldn't pose any problems or hardships  for you.  As always, I'll use Tropicana as the benchmark and if that's a bit too pricey, and you're happy to share a lively beach scene with 'travellers', then Bhumiyama is well worth looking at.

Guest Reviews:

"Very nice room on the 2nd floor of a bungalow overlooking the pool and beach. The outdoor bathroom was nice to start with but not very functional when it was raining :). We had some problems with the AC but the staff was great and put us in a new room over night while they where fixing the AC and we could move back the morning after. Nice pool area and beach access. The only disturbance could be if you stay in the bungalows located closest to the neighbour Nature Rocks bar and they celebrating the full moon party."

"The staff are lovely and very accommodating. The beach itself was covered in rocks just outside the hotel which was a bit of a surprise. It has to do with the time of year apparently; rocky in the high season and sandy in the off season. Doesn't make too much difference though as the water is wonderfully warm and there is a lot of sand further down the beach."

"Lovely gardens, quaint original bathrooms, Thai, exotic, one of the few resorts that comes with a pool, equipped with fountains, jacuzzi and baby pool. Most of all it has great friendly ambiance. Pleasant beach. Not so good things: Food is okay, menu is okay, resort is at the end of the island."

"We had no problems getting to the resort- the songthaews from the ferry should cost 80 baht per person, but it is helpful to request simply 'Lonely Beach' rather than Bhumiyama to avoid price inflation. To return to the ferry, simply wait on the driveway and flag down a songthaew (again 80 Baht) or the hotel will arrange a private taxi for 800 baht."

Prices through Evolution Tour for 2007-08

 

Room	Low Season 16/5-31/10	High Season 1/11-15/5	Extra bed
Superior Garden	2.000	2.800	1.000
Superior Seaview	2.300	3.100	1.000
Bungalow Garden	2.800	3.300	1.000
Bungalow Garden Deluxe	3.000	3.700	1.000
Bungalow Seaview	3.200	4.000	1.000
Bungalow Seaview Deluxe	3.500	4.400	1.000

 

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Bailan

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The Dusit Princess Resort ( $$$ - $$$$$ )

By early 2008, this hotel had been open for  a couple of months but still not 100% complete.  Kind of a soft-opening period.  The staff weren't yet up to speed and there guests were still reporting small problems with service, rooms etc.  However, when these initial glitches are ironed out this hotel should give the Amari a run for it's money as the best hotel on the island.  The Dusit hotel group is world renowned not only for the standard of it's accommodation but also for it's high standards of service and attention to detail. It doesn't own this hotel - which might explain some of the architecture which is a bit tacky in places, but does manage it

As with the Amari, the location isn't as good as with many of the 3 star hotels.  The beach at Bailan was short, narrow and the seafloor very stony - making swimming difficult.  However, it's amazing the difference that several thousand cubic metres of sand can make.  The man made beach is very nice and definitely one of the nicest places to lay a beach towel on the island.  The main downside is that there isn't any bank, ATM within walking distance, and not much in the way of shops or other restaurants  - just a few backpacker places.   Maybe not the ideal hotel for a family with young kids but for couples or anyone looking for a real luxury break to unwind.

Prices through Evolution Tour for 2007-08

 

Room	Low Season 01/08-31/10	High Season 01/11-15/04	Peak Season 24/12-10/01	Low Season 16/04-31/10
Pool View Deluxe	3.750	5.150	7.150	3.950
Pool Access Deluxe	4.250	5.650	7.650	4.450
Sea View Deluxe	5.300	6.250	8.250	5.500
Pool Villa	6.850	7.800	9.800	7.050
Honeymoon Villa	8.300	11.100	13.100	8.500
Honeymoon Suite	9.400	13.500	15.500	9.600

 

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Bang Bao

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BangBao Sea Huts ($)

The sea huts are located halfway along Bangbao pier - where the old pier finishes and the new extension begins.  And they are sea huts, a couple of dozen octagonal wooden hits built on concrete stilts above the sea.  Great location for anyone wanting to spend a few days living in the fishing village - although it is a bit touristy now.  Also this is a good base for divers, with several dive companies having their main offices and mooring their boats in Bangbao. The nearest good beach is a 20 minute walk away where you'll find Klong Kloi Beach - a very quiet stretch of sand with no bungalows, only a restaurant and beach massage area.

The huts themselves are spacious with all furniture in wood. The price for these huts has come down considerably as it appears that the owners priced them too highly originally. (Getting people to bypass all the beach resorts and stay in Bangbao isn't easy - it's a niche market.)   On the outside they are looking a bit faded now, they were only built about 3-4 years ago. 

If you love seafood, diving and are heading to/from one of the outlying islands then a night or two in Bangbao Sea Huts would be a good way to spend a bit of time away from the usual beach resort.

 

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Nirvana Resort ($$$)

Whether naming your resort after the kings of early 90s grunge rock is a good marketing move remains to be seen.  But Nirvana deserves to receive more guests than it currently does.

This is as secluded, as private and as luxurious as you're going to get on Koh Chang.  When I first saw the resort, from across the bay in Bangbao village I thought it someone was building a few very high-end Thai houses. These are in fact the bungalows for guests, and any bungalow with a panoramic views over a bay backed with mountains plus a DVD home theatre in each room and set amongst tropical gardens gets my vote.  The pool is small but this isn't  a problem as the resort is more 'boutique' than 'mass market'.  The pool deck makes a perfect place to  watch the sunrise over the bay and Bangbao fisherman's village. 

There is no real beach here, but a very nice attempt at an artificial beach has been made and the sunloungers a couple of minutes walk from the rooms look very inviting. 

The location doesn't lend itself to easily getting out and about.  But as you're near Bangbao, arranging boat tours, diving trips etc is easy.  The cape, on which Nirvana is located, is almost an island at high tide when the strip of land near the resort entrance narrows to literally only a few metres in width.  On one side you'll find a Thai style gazebo where you can sit and watch the waves hitting the shoreline of the open sea, turn your head 180 degrees and you'll see the mirror flat Bangbao bay.  From this vantage point you'll see the restaurant at Cliff Cottages, head there for cheap evening meals and sunset cocktails.

It looks quite low key, no over the top illuminations and garish decor, just well designed elegance, and at around the $100 a night mark it isn't over priced - providing you don't pay the excessive 'walk-in' rates.  If you're looking to escape the package tour masses and backpackers  and just want to laze all day, enjoy great views or do a bit of diving/snorkelling then Nirvana is definitely worth a visit. 

In 2005-6 high season I received quite a few negative emails from guests but in 2006-07 I only received one. So it looks like the management have sorted out some of the past problems.  Also in early 2007 a new waterfront restaurant opened 'Tantra', very nice setting and  a traditional wooden building over the water- that would make a good place for a quiet meal whether you're staying at Nirvana or not. 

Guest Reviews:

"Great bungalow, fantastic pools (mountain fresh water pool is the best) all set in tropical garden ideal getaway. only a few problems Internet in room was LAN connection (wall socket) and it did not work for the whole time I stayed at resort nor did the pool side wi-fi. I had to drive for 20 minutes in 1st gear all the way up and down mountain roads to nearest town to find restaurant."

"To Consider: The only way to get to Nirvana besides public/arranged transportation is a pre-arranged car (truck) from the Nirvana resort. The driver we had both ways to and from the airport in Trat was very professional and delivered us before anyone else could could have dreamed, he drove so fast, especially on the small, mountainous, hairpi-curve-filled Koh Chang roads that we were really scared on our ride."

"Hotel staffs are very friendly with prompt service when we need helps. However, there re no staffs at the reception after 10pm, even we called the emergency number that shown at the reception, but no one answer the phone."

"The resort itself is nice, but quiet and remote. If you are looking for activities and fun, don't go there. It is rather a place for individuals and people looking for peace. There is no beach! Only an artificial strand of sand."

 

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Koh Chang Grand Lagoona ($$ - $$$$$)

The largest and most secluded resort on the island, it lies at the end of the road about 3km past Bangbao.  Set on it's own private beach or more accurately, own private, 200 acre, chunk of the island it's got accommodation in pretty much all price ranges.  Everything from regular bungalows to hotel rooms to teak wood boat chalets to a floating hotel and so on.  

This pet project of a Thai billionaire made the headlines in Thailand in late 2003 when it was discovered that there were rather a lot of irregularities surrounding it's construction.  Everything from dubious land documents to the floating hotel actually being classified as a building - due to the fact it would never get a seaworthiness certificate if it was classed as a ship.  (Fortunately, the floating hotel is permanently moored in an inland canal and not out at sea.  Another ex-casino ship was moored offshore for guests who want to sleep on the ocean.)

Several big plus points are that the long, clean beach is very private - the only way to get to it is through the resort - ensuring that there are zero beach vendors and no danger of strangers wandering into the resort.  The grounds are huge, plenty of space for kids to play. From the resort you get sunset views and a panorama of the islands to the south of Koh Chang - Koh Wai, Koh Mak etc.  

The downside is that the resort is usually deserted, a ghost town even at New Year.  It doesn't seem to have  a high profile in print magazines or online and you never notice hoards of minivans whisking guests down there. So, think of it as a well-appointed open jail, only for tourists who'd rather not sample life beyond their resort's boundaries.  You'll need your own transport, a rented motorbike or car, to get to Bangbao village.

Guest Reviews:

"Hotel is so far away but that is better for privacy. The views are so good. I and my wife felt we really relaxed here. I suggest it for anyone who wants privacy and nature. Different from other hotels on Koh Chang."

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South East Koh Chang - Salakkok

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The Spa Koh Chang ($$$ - $$$$)

Before making any enquiries about this resort, ask yourself one simple question, "Why am I coming to Koh Chang?".  If the answer to your question at all relates to lazing around in the sun, eating copious amounts of seafood and drinking cocktails on the beach at sunset then forget about The Spa.

It is just that . . .  'a spa'.  A place to fast, to detox, to rejuvenate and where twice daily colonic irrigations are a selling point.  This isn't a location for a beach holiday.  The credentials are impeccable, it's an offshoot of The Spa Samui, one of the first health spas on the island and also home to one of the World's best vegetarian restaurants and a pioneer of 'raw food'.  The design is also great.  The Spa is hidden amongst the mangrove forest on the western shore of Salakkok bay.  It's all very back to nature with all buildings being of natural materials and looking how you imagine a Spa of this type to look.  No ugly concrete here just calm, casual rustic elegance.

Inmates (sorry, 'guests') are let out for a weekly trip into White Sand Beach but other than that you are pretty much inside the resort all day.  There are plenty of classes, lectures and activities laid on all aimed at promoting a much healthier lifestyle than the one you're leading today.  The first week or so of your stay will feel like hell as your body rids itself off the toxins it has accumulated.  But after 10 days people I've met all agree that they have an enhanced feeling of well-being . . . plus a craving for a beer and a steak.

The restaurant is open to non-guests, so makes a good spot for a healthy lunch if you're visiting this area of the island. 

Guest Reviews:

Prices through Evolution Tour for 2007-08

Room	Low Season 01/05-30/117	High Season 01/12-30/04	Peak Season	Low Season 01/05-30/11
Oriental	1.500	1.650	1.650	1.500
Lower Hill Cottage	2.650	3.300	3.300	2.650
L. H. Panoramic	3.000	3.600	3.600	3.000
Upper Hill Cottage	3.000	3.700	3.700	3.000
U. H. Panoramic	3.000	3.700	3.700	3.000
Single Cottage	3.600	3.900	3.900	3.600

 

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