The Complete Idiot's Guide to Koh Chang, Thailand.

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Some very nice bungalow resorts here with sunset views but the only thing the area lacks is a sandy beach. Which means that you can usually have no problems finding a good value room here, and it's a good choice providing you are willing to hop on songtaew or rent a scooter to get to the beach and back.   Use the controls to zoom in and click on the icons for more info about specific places and accommodation.

 
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This beach is also marked as 'Hat Kai Mook' on quite a few maps.

Ahhhh . . . . . 'Pearl Beach' the very name conjures up images of coconut palms swaying in the sea breeze whist g-string clad couples stroll on a sun kissed expanse of pure white sand.  I'm almost doing a 'hula' just thinking about it, book me in now.

In reality, unless there's some error in the translation I'm at a loss as to how this 'beach' got it's name other than a local entrepreneur thought that 'Stony coastline with a severe lack of sand' wasn't going to encourage tourists to spend their hard earned eurodollars here.  (In fact, the beach was named after the new born daughter of the first Thai/Western couple move to the area. Call in at 'Paradise Palms' for the full story.)

Down on the shore, most resorts have created mini artificial beaches for guests to laze on but the lack of sandy makes walking along the beach or wading into the water difficult.  On the plus side, pretty good snorkelling off a nearby coral reef is possible.

However, this doesn't mean that Pearl Beach should be avoided at all costs.  There are a few very nice small 'boutique' resorts on this stretch of coastline just south of White Sand Beach.  As the beach isn't great most resort owners seem to make more of an effort when it comes to offering decent, imaginative accommodation.  The cosy, wooden 'Remark Cottages', uniquely styled 'Keereeta', and the good value 'Paradise Palms' who provide a free motorbike with their rooms; are all very nice mid-range places to stay.  Not for your average backpacker, or for people wanting immediate access to a sandy beach, but if you're on holiday and are looking for a quiet, moderately priced place to base yourself for a week or two then you could do far worse. 

On the roadside you'll also see the concrete monolith that is 'Sky Bay' pub, Koh Chang's top i.e. only, Thai style nightclub.  Head here after shops & restaurants on White Sand Beach close to see the Thai staff letting their hair down whilst subjecting yourself to the horrors of Thai dance music being played with the volume turned up to 11.  Nearby new shophouses are being constructed. 

Opposite Keereeta Resort is 'Hungry Elephant' a small restaurant that doesn't look much but is in fact rated very highly for it's western cooking.  The Thai owner having worked abroad for many years. Nearby those in need of some spicy Isaan delights and draught Singha Beer can call in at 'Singha House' for some music and a meal. Also opposite is the barely noticeable entrance to one of the islands largest resorts, one that rarely seems to be advertised, very few people seem to know of and that has no discernable  internet presence - 'Koh Chang Resortel', so no surprise that despite having over 100 rooms it's pretty quiet most of the year.  It also boats what's probably the largest swimming pool on the island.  Strange what people with too much money choose to build.

Heading further south, the road heads up a slight incline and on the right you'll notice a row of shop units.  Divers, or those wanting brand name dive or snorkelling gear, should head to 'Dive Supply' the island's first specialised  store which stocks all the well known brands of equipment.  Nearby the Post Office does a roaring trade in stamps and you can also rent a PO Box cheaply if you are staying on the island longterm. A print shop is also here and, although pricy compared to the mainland, is cheaper than most internet cafes if you want to get any photocopying or printing done whilst on Koh Chang  They also make menus, business cards, signboards etc for a lot of businesses on the island.  Several foreign owned bungalows and bars are in a nearby cluster.  'Sanae's' has been serving up home made sausages and English breakfasts for years, 'The Elephant and Castle' will do you a proper Sunday roast with all the trimmings if you book in advance, 'Northern Lights' welcomes Harley Riders and anyone else with a handlebar moustache, inferiority complex and love of outdated machinery; and 'Sunrise' & 'Koh Chang Backpackers' have cheap rooms for rent - popular with long stayers.

One reason why every visitor to Koh Chang should head to Pearl Beach is for a meal at Saffron On the Sea - one of my favourite restaurants on Koh Chang.  Only 5 tables, cracking food, lovely setting, friendly owners and no loud music.  It's quiet, you can have a conversation, the food is as good as anything you'll have anywhere and it's the kind of place you are happy to wait half an hour for food to arrive as you know it's being made specially and not pre-prepared.  We stay there for hours sometimes, grab the table in the open air 'sala' by the sea and laze in the hammocks listening to the waves lapping against the shore.  The best place for a romantic meal on the island.