Changing the Face of Eden -
Jan 31, 2002
Koh Chang will soon be turning
away budget travellers for those with deep pockets if the government pushes
through its tourist development project. While the locals seem both bemused
and excited by the idea of hordes of the well heeled, newly-arrived
investors are quickly learning what should be provided.
Like an emerald jewel set in blue, the island of Koh Chang in the Gulf of
Thailand has miles of unspoilt beaches considered by many to be best out of
all our tropical islands, and just nine villages and two tambons.
Koh Chang has recently been targeted by Prime Minister Thaksin Shinwatara,
who has grand visions of this sleepy paradise becoming another Phuket - and
a major earner of hard currency.
"The island would generate huge revenue for the country if it were fully
developed,'' confirmed Forestry chief Plodprasop Suraswadi, who was recently
appointed chairman of the committee drafting Koh Chang's tourism master
plan. The island would cater to "first-class tourists," to limit the number
of visitors. "So backpackers would not be welcomed,'' the forestry chief
said.
For many, this has a depressingly familiar ring. And just who stands to
benefit? We have witnessed parts of Pattaya become another Patpong; Koh Tao
like Khao Sarn Road, and Koh Phi Phi into another Patong Beach. Is Koh Chang
destined to fill her coffers yet lose her soul?
Koh Chang covers 429 sq kilometres and is blessed by geography with
waterfalls, streams, mountainous jungles and peaks - the highest rising to
743 metres. There is also plenty of level ground along the beachfronts. This
idyllic place is home to wild pigs, macaques, and 30,000 residents.
The 52 islands that make up the Koh Chang archipelago were declared a Marine
National Park in 1982, and about 80 per cent of the lush, forested island is
under national park jurisdiction. There is so much rainfall that many
bungalows and resorts consume free of charge.
Next year, an airport on the mainland in Trat province will be completed to
handle the growing numbers of tourists. Meanwhile, the island has just 24 km
of tortuous road that links the major communities, tourist resorts and
guesthouses. The best hotel has fewer than 80 rooms, out of a total of 2,100
rooms on the entire island.
A traveller recently posted a message on the web board at pantip.com saying
he was dismayed to return to his favourite island after the car ferry
service began. "It will be even worse when the asphalt road goes right
around the island," he wrote.
Many visitors are nostalgic for the days when a trip to Koh Chang meant a
long ride on a fishing boat, followed by a long walk to find a vacant hut.
After the announcement of the Koh Chang development project, it's clear that
years of cheap and simple holidays are over.
Meanwhile, with the car ferry came new investors. Among them was Bumrung
Roumsub, a former windsurfer and founder of the Paramotor club who currently
runs the Havana Resort in Pattaya, and the Bumrung Sports Club in Rayong.
He came to Koh Chang by chance two years ago and established a small tour
operation on the island that focused on sport and ecotourism. He's now
established the "We Love Koh Chang Club" and recently opened the Iyara
Resort on the banks of the serene Khlong Prao River, where more tourist
projects are expected to be built.
Bumrung is not resentful of change. "It can mean improvement," he said,
adding that the income from tourism will enable the island to pay for water,
electricity, refuse disposal and other amenities which many guesthouses and
resorts currently take for granted.
However, over-development has already left it's ugly mark; especially the
tacky resorts at Had Sai Khao, the long sandy beach on the northwest side of
the island. Songthaws transport visitors to the dense array of resorts while
a jumble of small huts line the main road. About 80 per cent of the
accommodation offered on Had Sai Khao belongs to local people. Property
prices have risen steeply. Water management is still woefully undeveloped.
Even at the more serene Had Kai Bae, new resorts are being built and budget
travellers have to seek over more remote areas towards Had Bai Lan and Had
Tha Nam.
"I think we will see a lot more changes on the island next year with the
development of small resorts to attract middle-range tourists," says Bumrung.
Nonetheless, he also firmly believes that the island should only have a six-metre
wide asphalt road with a small bicycle path, no electricity lines above the
ground, and the preservation of the natural environment.
"What's more, I think the locals should promote organic farming so what they
sell to visitors is natural food from an unpolluted island."
While Had Sai Khao is almost spoiled, Bumrung thinks the pristine Had Khlong
Prao should be developed for upmarket tourists. "With plenty of flat land, a
long beach, the Khlong Plue waterfall, streams, fruit orchards and a
peaceful environment, Had Khlong Prao is perfect if it's developed with
care.
"This tropical island can be expanded beyond its low-key, backpacking roots.
But it is still for people who love nature, and we must preserve that," he
insists.
Scattered along Had Khlong Prao beach a handful of tourists are lying on the
beach watching a panoramic sunset. Behind them are simple wooden bungalows,
swaying coconut trees, and verdant hills. Further along the beach the
tourists often mistake the red roofed building for a temple, but it's a
resort under construction.
"It's surprising they consider the old thatched-roof bungalows have more of
a right to be built on the beach than a new resort with better facilities,"
says Khun Rungnapa, from KP Bungalows located next to the new resort at Had
Khlong Prao.
But then with 10-years of experience running "bungalows" Rungnapa has
learned that young tourists prefer a stretch of deserted beach so they can
sit back and read books rather than run around. Simplicity and peace is want
they want.
KP Bungalows consists of 20 small wooden houses nestled amid the jungle a
short distance from the beach. Many visitors come back year after year,
especially those who are content with a mosquito net, fan, a water container
for a shower and old linen on the beds.
"Right now, I can't see how upmarket tourists will outnumber the budget
travellers. Many local landowners have chosen not to sell their land, and
prefer to rent or run guesthouses themselves. At the same time, they have no
money to improve the condition of their bungalows," notes Rungnapa.
She has seen all kinds of tourists. "What I want from the new tourism
project is not more upmarket tourists, but those who qualifies as good
tourists." Indeed, there are plenty of regulations at KP Bungalows, and the
prices have gone up.
The one main street on Koh Chang runs from Had Khlong Prao to Had Kai Bae.
Although Had Kai Bae is not the most scenic beach, it has been the main
haven for backpackers. Today the thatched roof bungalows are gradually being
replaced with new resorts.
Also on the agenda is the development of Bang Bao - a traditional fishing
village of about 200 local people. Many of the flimsy wooden homes are on
stilts.
Wiset was born in Bang Bao-born and has lived in one of these buildings that
jut out into the sea for 30 years. The owner of a small grocery shop right
next to the pier, Wiset makes a small income from selling soft drinks to
visitors to supplement his main job as a fisherman. He seems bewildered by
the speed of the development project, saying: "People say money will soon
come to our front door, but I wonder how we will cope with it."
Wiset recognises that life today is more complicated: he now needs official
permission to enlarge his house; wood-cutting is strictly prohibited, but
then the new road, electricity and a public telephone will make life easier.
Meanwhile some of his neighbours are converting their modest homes into
seafood restaurants and guesthouses and sell local products like shrimp
paste and dried fish to visitors.
"We also change as we get older," Wiset's uncle chips in, adding: "And I've
learned that it's often better to try something new."
It is a given that change is inevitable and change has improved the life of
local people on many islands. But will we ever learn the most difficult
lesson? That is, if we destroy the very thing that attracts people in the
first place with ill conceived, unregulated development and rapacious greed,
everyone loses.
The tourists will stop coming, the people will lose income and it will be
too late to do anything about the environment that was wrecked in the
process.
Vigilance is essential.
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